three.sisters

Hill Country SUN

By TOM WILEY
The sight of motorcycles darting through the Hill Country is a common one. Motorcyclists enjoy some advantages over their four-wheeled road-mates.
The senses are fully activated on a motorcycle—the smell of a freshly cut field, the chill of a fog laden valley, the scream of a hawk overhead. Even the physics of leaning and accelerating through a tight curve come into play.
Although the list of Hill Country roads and towns is long, motorcyclists usually claim The Three Sisters (originally called the 100-mile loop) as their favorite ride. This trio of Ranch Roads—337, 336, and 335—is located in the southern portion of the Edwards Plateau. These narrow roads were seemingly constructed to highlight the best scenery that Bandera, Real, and Edwards counties have to offer.
Riders on a sunny day are almost always in pursuit of food. If driven by a sweet tooth, they may be pointing to the Patio Cafe at Love Creek Orchards in Medina, where burgers may be ordered, but they always save room for dessert—try the soft apple ice cream with hot apple sauce—really, anything apple.
Towns are few and far between along The Three Sisters. They are small and smaller and are economically dependent on ranching and tourism.
Ranch Road 337 departs Medina and becomes a roller coaster ride. Shallow creeks tell long-forgotten tales of times when they carved through now-exposed limestone bluffs. Stately ranch houses cling to mountain tops, commanding some of the best views in Texas.
The hills become dotted with maple trees as the road approaches Vanderpool. These and other deciduous trees make nearby Lost Maples State Natural Area a “must go” destination in the fall.
The highway makes a long, steep climb out of Vanderpool. For the next few miles, the road narrows and weaves through sheer canyon cuts, offering curves with dramatic drop-offs to the valleys below.
It becomes hard to concentrate both on the demands of riding (or driving) and the breathtaking views. This is the “real” Texas Hill Country.
The approach to the town of Leakey crosses the Frio River, a boulder-strewn stream lined by towering cypress trees.
Leakey is popular with hunters and tourists alike, offering numerous services, accommodations, and cafes.
Waves of bikes through town have spurred on the birth and growth of several businesses in recent years, some owned and operated by motorcyclists themselves.
Vinny’s Italian Restaurant serves up great home-cooked meals. Try their eggplant Parmesan.
The Hog Pen is housed in a converted gas station, easily identified by the plume of barbecue smoke wafting across the road. Owner Buddy Casteel also features live music on Friday nights.
You can always find a party at The Buckhorn, a converted barn owned by motorcyclists Deborah and Kerry Sheppard. It’s a laid-back bar and dance hall where visitors feel like they’ve invited some of their best friends over to the backyard.
Although bikers congregate at the Frio Canyon Motorcycle Stop and the Bent Rim Grill (owned by Robin and Bob, both motorcyclists), this friendly hangout is open to all visitors.
You must be on two wheels to spend the night at motorcyclist Deb Rose’s unique D’Rose Inn and Cabins.
D’Rose, the first motorcycle lodging property in the country, was voted #1 Best Road Trip Lodging 2010 in Ride Texas magazine. Stop in for Bob’s Birthday Party March 27.
For many, Leakey is the end of a long day trip. Some may head south on US 83 towards Garner State Park. Others may head home through Kerrville (home of Koyote Ranch) and Fredericksburg.
But bikers know that “the road goes on forever and the party never ends,” as Robert Earl Keen so aptly put it.
North of the courthouse in Leakey, Ranch Road 336 splits off and parallels the upper Frio River.
This beautiful road is seldom traveled and makes sharp curves and steep mountain climbs before breaking onto a dry plateau near its terminus with Texas Highway 41.
One favorite stop in the area is Garven Store, just north of Highway 41 on US 83. You can load up on several varieties of jerky; sample one of their home-recipe sausage wraps; or sit out on the deck with a cold beverage, being entertained by the peacocks and one of the kittens that’s just decided to bed down in your lap.
Another option is to continue on Ranch Road 337 west from Leakey towards the small communities of Camp Wood and Barksdale.
It’s probably obvious that motorcyclists own Two Fat Boys BBQ in Camp Wood. Their meats are smoked all night and have become a favorite in the Western Hill Country.
From Barksdale, Ranch Road 335 travels 30 miles north, tracing an upper arm of the Nueces River. This route sees little traffic and, yet, offers some incredible views before also “T-ing” into Highway 41.
Hill Country travelers who have never visited this part of the state are always amazed at the scenery they’ve been missing. The remoteness of the area makes the winding roads and distant vistas even more special.
Other highways tap into The Three Sisters and provide access to Bandera, Utopia, Concan, Rocksprings, and more popular tourist destinations.
B&Bs, country cabins, and quaint inns provide opportunities to escape the work week and dangle toes in chilled streams or hike hills teeming with wildlife.
And if the question comes up about where to eat, just follow the motorcycles.
FYI • Upcoming Hill Country motorcycle rallies include Thunder in the Hills Rally March 26-28 in Bandera and Three Sisters Spring Fling Rally April 9-11 in Camp Wood.

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